Now that winter weather is finally upon us, we should take a look at what we need to do to prepare our bicycles for the winter training season. Just as your training seasons change, so does the maintenance schedule for the machine you train on. While nearly every rider scenario is different from the next, here are a few helpful hints to insure that your bike consistently offers you the most efficient ride possible.

At the end of the season the bike should be completely Overhauled. Usually around November or December, but whenever you feel is the right time as long as it’s before the beginning of harsh winter training. What I mean by Overhaul is this: remove all the components from the bike, discard the handlebar tape, cables and housings and sit down for a long afternoon (or two) of cleaning and inspection. With the parts off of the bike you can really dig into all the small nooks and crannies that you don’t even know are there when it’s installed. This is also the best way to check for wear in the chainrings, pulleys, brake pads and such. Plus, holding a derailleur in your hand and pushing against all the springs and spinning the jockey wheels really lets you get to know how the parts do their jobs. Having a more intimate knowledge of the pieces that make up your bike will lead to a more efficient usage of them by the operator. 

After all the parts are cleaned and the pivot points are lubricated, its time to spend some quality time with the frame. Cleaning  the frame is also much easier to do without all those pesky components in the way. This is the perfect opportunity to inspect for cracks or other damage that you may not have noticed before.  Be sure to check all around the Bottom bracket area, the fork  head tube and the seat clamp zone. While your at it, touch up those ugly paint chips and scratches.  Don’t forget to clean the gunk out of the seat tube.

Wheels are next. Again, clean the rim, spokes and hub and inspect for cracks or dents. After the rims are clean scrub the braking surfaces of aluminum rims (not for Carbon!) with steel wool or a “gummi” stone (Mavic makes a nice one). True the wheels, if necessary. But even if they are running straight now is the time to make sure they are appropriately tensioned. This will make them stronger and last longer. 

Handlebars, stems and seatposts must also be removed and inspected, especially at the clamping zones. Carbon parts can crack under the clamp where you can’t see them when installed. Always, always, always use a torque wrench when dealing with carbon parts. If you do use the right torque and a carbon part still slips then you should use a carbon assembly paste. Don’t just tighten it more, it will break!

Now we can turn our attention to the bearings in the Headset, Bottom bracket and hubs. If the bearings are shot, replace them.  If they still have some life left then they should be cleaned and re-greased. Since we’re going into the nasty winter weather, use more grease then you think. At this time, it’s better to use too much and have it get all over everything then to use too little and not protect your bearings. You can always wipe off the excess that purges out.   

OK, everything is clean, straightened and lubed. Now we get to put it all back together. There isn’t time or space here to go into the fine details of the installation and adjustment of each component on your bike. If you don’t feel confident in your ability to do this then I suggest you let a professional handle it.  Otherwise, give it a shot, you just might learn something along the way.

New cables, new bar tape and it looks like a brand new bike! Well, maybe not, but it should ride better (and quieter) then it did last week.  

A few other helpful hints…
Before you remove ANY parts from your bike please take measurements to insure that you put them back in the same place.  Nothing can be more frustrating than to finally get your fit dialed in then you go and screw it up by forgetting where the headset spacers go or what your seat fore/aft position is. Here is a handy, downloadable chart courtesy of Park Tool that will help.  

Since we’re going into winter you should use a heavier weight, wet style chain lube that will stay on better through the wet, salty, snowy conditions. Chain-L is my favorite, but DuMonde Tech and Pedro’s make good winter lubes, as well.

Good luck with the winter riding. We’ll address what to do to clean up after the snow melts when the time comes.  As always, feel free to ask any questions that come up.  You can email me at sensei@ifixbyx.com or consult my website for more info.