PART II – Koksijde by Train

From Ghent we travelled to Koksijde, about one hour from Ghent by train on the Northern Belgian coast, where the UCI World Cup Cyclo-Cross race was to be held. Blue skies greeted us as the train flew alongside fields of snow dotted with goats, sheep and a solitary cow grazing on hay.

At the train station my trio of hard core bike fans squeezed into a bus that took us and the majority of Belgian fans a few miles out of town.


Warm-up Over – Pre-CX Race

The top contenders included Sven Nys, Niels Albert, Zdenek Stybar, Kevin Pauwels amongst the men and Katharine Compton, US champion in the women’s field.
Although chilly, there was a massive crowd following the racers up and down hills, observing the ascents and descents and cheering loudly, beers in hand.

Many of the spectators were part of fan clubs with the names of their favorite riders emblazoned on the back of jackets – “Nys Supporters Club” or “Pauwels Cyclo Cross Club” seemed the most popular. There were flags of Flanders, mud so sticky it sucked a few spectators downwards and plenty of beer and frites with dollops of mayonnaise.

I had raced cross here in New York, but this was like the Alped’Huez of Cyclo-Cross. The course was full of sand in places, sticky mud, paving and grass, less technical than our local races, but the pace was shockingly fast.


Belgian Cross Walk

We followed the women’s field around trudging through sand and climbing up hills and heard the US national anthem as Katharine Compton climbed the podium in first spot.

As the men lined up and took off, we could feel the whoosh of air go by as they powered their way to the first corner. Fans would rush to the next best spot to watch their favorites. We decided to view the men’s race from the big screen. A nine man break got away. Albert attacked ahead of the sand, holding the gap. He took it on a solo break with Stybar second and Nys third.


Fans Await Their Favorite CX Racer

Back at the station we awaited the train back to Ghent and got talking to a man dressed in cycling attire. He turned out to be, Katharine Compton’s mechanic and was going to Antwerp. We got talking and his insights into cyclo-cross were real pearls of wisdom.

BRUGES and BEER
For any cycling fan out there who enjoys a beer or two, Bruges is the place to go. With independent breweries everywhere and restaurants with local beer, we sampled plenty of “blondes” and “bruins” in a relaxed atmosphere.


A Local Brew: “Garre” from the Brewery (of the same name) in Bruges

During our brief stay in Bruges, it rained almost every day. There was so much to do, that the rain didn’t bother us.

One of the first things I noticed was the sheer number of cyclists, sans helmet, of all ages speeding along cobbles as if they were on freshly paved roads.


Bike Friendly Bruges

While in Bruges, we didn’t hear a single car honking at cyclists. Two things struck me: the reason why the Belgians are the best bike handlers is that at a very, very young age they’re maneuvering along pave and second, there is a culture of tolerance toward the bike. Cars and pedestrians blend with bikers seamlessly.


A Room with a Bruges View

I would recommend staying in the central part of Bruges at hotels nestled by the canal. Having a base so centrally is the key due to inclement weather.


Great Flemish Stew


Helmet-less and Care Free

Bruges and Belgium in general, exuded a tremendous bike friendly culture. We saw young kids, elderly and middle aged cyclists riding along sans helmet.

2011 may see my return, next time for the Ronde de Vlanderann!