by Aaron Wolfe

Winter riding is here, and we know this because sugary drinks are slushing up in the bottle. Plain water is turning to plastic-encased solid ice, which bounces in metal cages and sounds like some loose part rattling.

Cyclists miss such an important part of the experience if they don’t experience winter rides up to the Orchards or beyond. Cold, long rides offer a sense of accomplishment hard to get during warmer months and a little sense of adventure. There’s always a hint of setting off into the unknowns of weather, traffic, equipment and physiology. Last Saturday Prinsloo, Accardi and I met at the bridge at 6am and set off up 9W. It’s pretty dark at 6am, but in the dark you don’t feel as cold, and not being able to see the ground very well adds to the sense of speed. 

We’ve done variations on this ride a few times. Up 9W to the Spoon, empty at that hour and temperature, where a stop is sometimes made. Then further up 9W to Haverstraw, where we dip down to sea level before climbing up to Gate Hill Road. The week previous we turned right and went through Harriman, down Seven Lakes Drive wet with melted snow that soaked the legs and made them sting and past Bear Mountain before turning home on 9W.

Last week we made a left and descended Gate Hill, stopped for pie and melted drinks at the Orchards, then held our hands in front of our faces for protection as we went down South Mountain Road. We passed into the temperate zone south of Nyack forgetting that only 20 minutes earlier a frostbitten nose was not out of the question.

I love the last 10 miles, from State Line to the bridge. This stretch of 9W seems to take forever on a ride to the border and back, but after 70 hard miles it’s nothing. There are rabbits to catch every mile or so, which must then be shaken out of the draft. I try to pretend that I still have enough gas left to take a few powerful pulls, but I’m not allowed at the front for long. Lately it’s been the big South African who picks up the hammer and puts it down. Seeing friends just heading out on their rides I feel glad to have the work done, however unnecessarily excessive and painful it might have been. On the other hand, they are riding in the warmest part of the day in full sunlight. But to paraphrase Accardi, we do more before 11am than most people do before11am. That bit of satisfaction may be a fool’s reward, but I’ll take it.

Roasted Roma Tomatoes

D and I were out at a local place for dinner recently, where chopped tomatoes were served with the salads. December is no time to serve or eat golf ball tomatoes, even if they’re disguised with salt, pepper and balsamic and a lot of chopping. How any restaurant gets by serving flavorless chewy tomatoes is beyond me, especially because it’s so simple to enjoy real tomato flavor all winter long with just a little work.  

Romas or plum tomatoes (Romas are a variety of plums) are perfect for roasting. Local Romas have rich flavor in summer, and some flavor exists in those that are picked green and turn red on the cross-country trip fromMexico or California, even in winter. They are shaped to roast evenly. As their liquid condenses, so does the flavor. In about an hour you can have edible, delicious tomatoes any time. Canned tomatoes are not bad, but I find that they are just too juicy and soft to use for anything but sauce.

Roasted Romas found there way into almost everything in an Italian American restaurant where I worked. We made them by the bucket a few times a week. For a mac and cheese garnish at another restaurant, we made them a bit more delicately, removing the seeds and skins and then chopping them with fresh herbs and pea shoots, which made a surprisingly nice contrast of color and flavor. With a supply of roasted Romas on hand you’ve got a lot of flavor ready to add to any number of dishes: sandwiches, crostini, pizza, salsa, salads, pastas. I usually end up eating them like candy, especially right out of the oven. 

Sales pitch over. Take several pounds of Romas and cut in half lengthwise. These will keep very well for a week or more, so go big. If you want to take the seeds out, do it now. Toss in a large bowl with olive oil, salt, pepper, lots of garlic sliced thick, some dried oregano and sliced fresh basil (as long as we’re cooking with ingredients grown thousands of miles away). Or, vary the seasoning to your own taste. Lay the halves out cut side up on baking sheets and cook at around 350-375 until they’re shriveling and starting to brown on the edges, around 40+ minutes. You might even smash them a bit with a wooden spoon to release some of the juice. If it seems they’re getting dark too fast, turn down the heat. Some of the juice in the pan may get pretty dark. It’s OK as long as it doesn’t turn black, but watch out for bitter, dark garlic. When they’re cool, store them with any juice and scrapings you can get off your pans. The skins will come right off at this point, if you want them off. 

This will give you juicy, flavorful tomatoes. If you want to concentrate the flavor even more, try a lower temperature and longer cook time. Maybe 300 degrees for 2 hours.