CX Di2 Live Build with Mark Purdy

Let’s build a bike!

Today we’re going to do a live build of Mark Purdy’s personal CX bike, a LaPierre cyclo-x superlight aluminum frame. Caveats first. This is Mark’s personal bike, and he’s going to ‘drill the shit out of it’ to make it all internally routed. He will never sell this bike, and he knows full well he has voided the warranty and he’s willing to accept the risk of the frame cracking. He just wants to try to do some crazy shit. So here we go.

And there’s hole #1. A wire will go down the stem, into another hole in the steerer tube, and exit here into the downtube. The upper hole will be drilled after the stem height is determined.

Another hole. The wire will exit here, then…

…enter and exit the chainstay.

Shimano’s new CX brakes. 

DT R1800 wheels, tubeless and affordable at around $600. 

Brake chatter can be reduced by shortening the length of cable between the hanger and the brakes. Mark is going to use a hanger that bolts to the fork crown (instead of its customary location at the top of the head tube), so he’s drilling this hole through (it’s a hole for attaching a cable catcher).

That’s an aluminum fork crown he just drilled out, not carbon!

There’s the hanger installed. Shortening the free cable run will reduce brake chatter.

Fitting the front end, this will tell Mark where exactly to drill the steerer tube and bars.

Finding the location of the upper hole.

Time to drill five holes. Two behind each shifter, one in the middle of the bars leading back into the stem, one on the steerer tube, and here on the seat tube leading to the front derailleur.

Action shot!

The holes in the bars. Mark drilled below the attachment point for the hoods to minimize stress on the bars when he’s on the tops or the hoods.

Feeding the wire through the chainstay’s going to be tough. Mark’ll have to route a guide cable through first, tape it to the wire, then drag it back through. He’s expanding the hole to make the process easier.

Spoke too soon. That sucker went right through no problems. Mark is going to use red Sugru to seal the holes. Time to watch the Vuelta stage finish!

Mark has chosen to have junction box A live inside the stem, so he won’t be able to adjust the shifting easily once the bike’s built. Now he’ll build up the rear end of the bike, get the shifting tuned, then complete the front end.

Dedicated Shimano crankset with 46-36 rings. Now you don’t have to buy a road crankset and change the rings.

Mark wants to mount the battery nice and low, so he’ll install a couple of rivnuts on the downtube. Unfortunately he only has 5mm rivnuts and the mount takes 4mm bolts, so he’ll have to grind out the mount.

Two holes for rivnuts, one for the wire.

Popping in the first rivnut.

Grinding down the heads of 5mm bolts so they’ll sit flush in the battery mount. If they protrude the battery won’t be able to slide in. 

One bolt done, nice and flush.

Ultegra connectors are nice and thin. A 13/64" bit is all it takes.

Mark says the worst is over (we’ll see about that). The rear end is all connected, he’ll connect the shifters just to make sure everything’s working before pressing in the BB.

Pressing in the BB86 cups.

Front derailleur installed, using Shimano’s clamp. The clamp is shaped so that the set screw on the derailleur pushes against the clamp instead of the frame.

Fine tuning the shifting with the shifters hooked up but not fully installed. Once this is all set Mark will route the bars and finish the front end.

Bahn mi and bubble tea lunch break!

Normal bike building stuff now, cutting a steerer tube.

With the lower bearing sitting on the fork crown, there’s just enough space to slip the fork into the headtube with the wire alongside.

The other end goes into the stem.

Now the fun job of routing the wires through the bars. Mark runs a brake cable through first as a guide. Here he’s trying to fish it out of the middle hole.

Tape the end of the wire to the cable and pull.

Plugging in the shifter with the dedicated tool.

Plug the front to the back and it’s done. The shifters work, and amazingly the wire crossing from the steerer to the downtube doesn’t affect the turn radius at all.

Cabling up the brakes.

These brakes come with 3 different size spacers. Mark is installing a narrower spacer to bring the brake arms in for more heel clearance.

Setting up the front brake. Note the extremely short run of cable from the hanger to the straddle.

Sugru-ing the short runs of wires on the outside.

And that’s pretty much it. Kinda cool how the only thing visible coming out of the front end are the two brake cables.

Wrapping the bars with Arundel tape, which Mark finds to be the greatest of all bar tapes.

And she’s done! Mark just needs to add sealant and seal the tires, add pedals, and he’s done. Thanks for following along.

71 Comments

joshs

hey mark, how many rodeo’s would you say you have participated in? and would you say you are better at the timed events or the “rough stock” comp?

Benedetto Tigweld

I’m impressed with having the wiring come through the handlebars and the stem! Mark, does this mean we will be seeing you at SICX?

Kevin S.

mikeweb

So, the shifter cable routes inside the bars to inside the stem to inside the steerer tube then out the steerer tube directly into the down tube? How are you accounting for the movement of the steerer tube, excess cable in the space between the steerer tube and the downtube (frame)? Won’t there be too much friction in there that may damage the cable? But perhaps that frame has a large enough opening between the head tube and down tube…

I’m sure you’re on top off all that. A very nice setup.

Schiatta Headset

Do you check the hanger alignment. I’ve never seen a new frame show up with the hanger perfectly aligned. You go through so much trouble to make everything perfect. An out of align hanger will not give as nice of a shift as one that is aligned.

Sensei

A.) I did check the hanger alignment, as we do on every new build. Andy didn’t take a pic probably because it’s not a very interesting thing to see. There were a lot of steps that weren’t documented simply out of practicality. But for what it’s worth… the hanger was square from the factory.

B.) Will the wiring inside the steerer/Head/downtube wear on the wiring when I turn the bars? There is a lot of space in between the steerer and Head tubes. Plenty of room for the wiring to move freely without rubbing. But as a precaution against it I wrapped that section of wire with electrical tape. There is still a slight chance of something rubbing to the point of wearing down the insultion and causing a short. But I’m not worried about it. If it happens then I’ll replace the wire and do what’s necessary to prevent the next one.

-Sensei

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Why do you always make that smug expression like you have a secret whenever Andy takes your photo? And is that beard good for storing pencils?

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Sensei

…don’t you trust Di2 in the mud? I’m interested to hear the reasoning for it. Is it based on some past experience or just good ol’ paranoia of things we don’t understand? I don’t mean that sarcastically. If anyone has a legitimate concern then I’d love to assuage it. Yes, I just used the word “ass-wage”

Amerigo Lorica

I’ve never seen any cx rider run those cranks, mark really?

36t is too small to be useful in any circumstances and 46 is too big to push unless you are Jan Ullrich or the badger or Ryan Trebon. There is a reason why everyone uses standard road cranks and runs rings between 39t and 44t.

Arno Rivnut

Did you weigh the removed material from the holes you drilled? I’m wondering if there is also a weight advantage to this set up…
P.S. DI2 has been proven in the worst cross conditions by the few that did run it last season.

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Amerigo come on, man, look at that last photo. The dude’s packin some beefy midsection, he needs all the 36×28 he can get.

Sensei

Amerigo, none of us have seen this crank before. It’s new this season and just became available a couple of months ago. 36T may be a bit on the low side for some people. And it’s quite possible that I’ll move up to a 38 or 39 if necessary. It may suprise you to learn that I can turn over a 46T. You are welcome to stick with your 44 and be content with the knowlegde that my weiner is also bigger than yours.

Although I appreciate Chubby referring to my mid section as “Beefy”, the reality is that there is much more gristle than meat.

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What is it they are advertising in the subway now? It looks like an advertisement for guns. Because Sometimes Diplomacy Fails. They are like the Lance Armstrong-Paul Ryan Moonlighting do-over with Willis and what’sername Candace or whatever to sit in and pose for the cameras.

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Alexis Housing

Mark, I commend you on having found a profitable niche in the market. I’m glad that you’re able to take the Type A d-bag banker bike racers to the cleaners putting together equipment that no one in their right mind needs.

CX used to be a vacation from the hyper serious people in the road scene, but now they’ve discovered that it’s an even more equipment intensive sport that they can clamp their neuroses to.

At least there’s still MTBing…

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Sensei

Thank you for the somewhat back-handed compliment Alexis. I’m just not quite sure I understand what you’re trying to get at. Do you race on a Lugged Steel, 6-speed friction bike with Aluminum box section wheels, Benotta Cellotape and Clip/Strap pedals? If not, then I don’t think your arguments hold much water. Using curent technology to build a bike that will be fun to ride (as well as fun to build) doesn’t seem hyper-serious to me. I hate to be the one to break this to you, but as long as there has been CX racing some people have taken it more seriously than others. Which catagory you fall into is your choice. Stand tough my friend! Don’t let that Type-A, D-bag Banker whom I bilk out of his life savings tell you that you have to take CX seriously. Grow your own balls and go have fun at 7am and let the Type-A’s have their “Serious” race at 2pm.

You are right about one thing… Mountain bike are much cheaper and less equipment oriented.
(that was sarcasm, for those who couldn’t tell)

"Tricky" Dick Fuld

Alexis must be a financial services industry lawyer, resenting the fact that he often gets slammed with doc drafting requests on Fridays at 4:30 pm by his d-bag banker cyclist clients (who take off for weekend training camps in exotic locales like Northern Westchester), requiring his working late nights and into the weekend.

Be the client, Alexis. Don’t hate the players.

Subspd

Guys any updates on how this setup held up? Would like to know if you had any frame problems or other issues. Anything you would have done differently?

Mohamed Tubie

i love this, HOWEVER, how does the wire running from the steerer tube into the down tube not get pinched against the head tube when the bars are turned?

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